THE HANDSTAND

MAY 2002


Unreconstructed ramblings in the American Myth...............:Nu Yawk.

AMERICA
AMERICAAAAA
WHAT TIME IS LOVE?????????
.........the KLF

And you sir, the purpose of your visit?
I'm on a kwest, a kwest for the poets soul.............
Yes sir.
I now understand the meaning of the word 'askance'.
Y'all have a good holiday now.

All great journeys begin not with a single step but with a moment of acknowledging an absence. Perhaps this is what Kerouac, warrior of the american night, meant by his microscope which revealed the centre of all things being nothing. The point we depart from in any attempt to discover something is a point of emptiness, a realisation that something, be it God or abstraction, is missing. That in order to fulfil the prophecy of being one must acquire this absence and with alchemy turn nothing into something. The mystery of creation. The genesis of belief is disbelief.

I'm considering these metaphysical issues from the back seat of a cab (automatic of course) as I speed in from the airport to town. Will my questions be answered on these streets? Past Gospel churches and clapboard houses my Hindi driver floats. Periodically, Bruce Wayne asks me to buckle up.
Welcome to America, land of the free, but you're only as free as they let you be.
The basic idea seems to be that the alternative is too scary.
Go with us.

Walk.
Don't walk.......... and be sure to have a nice day, holiday, life.

Through the suburbs and into the city. Manhattan, nine miles that make up the East Coast dream. It is a strange thing to see something a thousand times before seeing it in the flesh. The serrated skyline, symbolic of the American vision, glares toward heaven. Sometimes progress should go sideways instead of upwards; it would benefit the breadth of vision required of rounded living.

This is New York. The Big Apple. The city that never sleeps. Giuliani's Gomorrah.
Home to Holliday and Burroughs. A young Kerouac screamed west from here. Parker thought witticisms and drank whisky. There is a history for NY to live up to. I wonder if it can?

25th floor and my ears pop as I step out of the elevator. From an apartment window I stare across the city and listen to the Chemical Brothers, "Out of Control". Something is missing. It is me, the security of an identity in familiar surroundings. I am external to the whole process. From here the city is made up of rooftops, sirens. Up here the world tastes different. This city has everything anyone could want, it's got a park, high class shops, drugs to your door and gyms for your dogs. Tompkin Square riots and the Dalai Lama speaking in Central Park.

You have to hand it to America, she's subtle. She wont tell you what you can or cant have, she'll tell you what you do or don't want.

..........."We'll manufacture your desires for you and save you the trouble You can use the time to chase your dream the dollar bill. The dream we mass-manufacture for you and print complete with moral; "In God we trust"! On high quality paper too!!".......

Enough cynicism. Time to explore the night, see what makes this city tick. The pulse of concrete over a malevolent snake. Gusts of hot air rush from beneath assuring us of a rhythm the city is in thrall to. I shower; high pressure for this height. A tattoo of water on the skin I carry. Feeling better I go roaming.

Down third avenue, base-heads quoting Yeats, people I will never see again call me Sir in saccharine tones. The cloying heat of the city night is reminiscent of the depth of an embrace. The shroud with pockets. Onwards, embrace the mystery of the Atlantic night. The sirens wail and the cabdrivers curse. The beautiful people walk their dogs, run, rollerblade, sip Manhattans and indulge in people friendly jazz with their cheese plate. They are their image and don't know why.

Laura tells me that everyone needs therapy.
Sure......... we all have issues.

Downtown the streetscene is younger. Bangin' apocalyptical electronica rocks Tompkins Sq. with industrial menace. New York's finest look on as the wheels of steel spiral ever tighter and homeless junkies goof on benches. Charlie Parker lived here, Avenue B. His spirit, a spirit of urgent intoxicated beauty and hope amid drab reality, permeates the very air. Old folks play chess and young folk dance. On street corners people hang out looking intimidating, apathetic in their movements.

Astor Place. An angel with black wings and motorbike boots points at me and tells me that lust without focus is greed.................

A bar on East fourth. Watered down Jameson by candlelight is reminiscent of Polish squats. Behind blocked out windows the faces of women from assembly lines of fifties Kiev watch over you. Busts of Lenin and Soviet flags. Mid 70's NY punk bands play from the ancient sound system. An angular blonde reads a novel of inner city hope behind the bar.
I slouch, smoking endless Kamel Reds.

Into the darkness of the night I sidle. Through the East villages back streets. Dark and malevolent the edge is dulled by people chillin' on the steps of their blocks. Across West village cobbled streets. The bars are full. Summer in the city.
The Chelsea Hotel, beautiful redbrick set off on a side street, a roof garden and an archaic lobby. Miller wrote the Crucible here. Behan espoused the wonders of his new found homeland from these rooms. Sid murdered Nancy and made the tabloids on the other side of the ocean. The roof garden flourishes, it's greenery high in the sky detached from the bustle of streets and avenues. Westside chic ambles between coffee and stoli.
The night is sultry and the mood is upbeat.
A girl on blades swoops past, a bagel in one hand and a coffee in the other.

On a corner I look to the depths of myself in an attempt to answer what in hell I'm doing here. Travel centres the self, builds resources and allows you to know yourself more intimately. The true adventure is the adventure within.

Back up, rightways to the Algonquin hotel, home of the round table of 20's and 30's fame. Parker, her wondrous use of American English, was based here amongst her decadent and cynical cronies. I take in the plush surroundings, leather chairs and originals on the walls. Another myth dispelled. Revolution in luxury is indulgence. Perhaps pursuit of truth is not all it is cracked up to be.
A Hong Kong barman passes me a drink and asks where I'm from. I tell him I'm not sure.

Fifth Avenue by night, Rockefeller plaza and St. Patrick's Cathedral. A man carries the weight of his world on his shoulders. I empathise by streetlight. The south gates of Central Park. A man is feeding pigeons.
"I'm feeding my birds" he announces joyously as I wander past. "I been feeding my birds for the last twenty years. They trust me see."
I envy this man in his tattered jeans and tortured Reeboks. On his knees in the indifferent city, surrounded by breadcrumbs, he has found his way home. He is at ease with his life. He's found something to trust him, someone to need him. He has a reason and happily tells strangers about it.

On up to lie out the night. Museum mile, the Met, the Guggenheim, the Jewish museum. A surreal retrospective in the Guggenheim.
All Dali's clocks state ten to seven.
It is not that time now.

Each step a symbol I work my way uptown.

Air conditioned Mexican beer. American cigarettes with English music. Above the Hudson river I seek a point of reference in the great scheme of things and get lost in the process. It'll be a long night of idle self reflection. There is no such thing as complex truth and the truth hurts.
Through glass the city is silent.
Mileage yawns before me like a lifetime.
Chase dreams not women.
In the twinkle city lights I crumble.....................

By SEAN O' CADHAIN